If you want to extend the life of your 5th gen 4Runner, you must change your oil and filter just like any other vehicle. While its true that our rig‘s 1GR-FE are very robust, it still is subject to the same wear over time if the proper maintenance is not completed.
This is a relatively easy process which can give you extra peace of mind knowing that the oil change was actually done correctly and you are running a quality oil of choice. Don’t risk the lifespan of your rig at the dealer or a quick change shop, take a few hours and do it yourself.
Difficulty: Moderate
Frequency: Every 6 months or 5,000 miles.
Estimated time: Less than an hour
Estimated cost: Depends on the oil used, typically around $50-$70
All info is based on a 2010 and up 1GR-FE (V6)
For oil: (6.6 qts required)
Toyota OEM 0W-20: 00279-0WQTE
MSRP (per quart): $5.08
Recommended Amsoil Signature 0W-20
MSRP (per quart): $9.81
For oil filter:
Toyota OEM: 04152-YZZA5
MSRP: $6.22
Special Tools Required: Motivx Oil Cartridge Adapter
Other tools/items needed: Ratchet, extensions, torque wrench, pick, deep socket, gloves, jacks, and jackstands
1. Start the vehicle and let it idle for 5-10 minutes, then shut it off. It is likely you will need to use a floor jack or ramps to gain access to the bottom panels. If your vehicle has adequate ground clearance, you may skip the lift and support step.
2. The oil drain bolt is located behind a small cover secured by two bolts (not shown).
3. Using a 14mm deep socket (or standard socket with extension) loosen the bolt, but do not remove it yet.
4. Make sure your drain pan is positioned directly below and carefully spin the bolt off until the oil starts draining.
5. If you are collecting a sample to send to an oil analysis company like Blackstone Laboratories, I tend to wait 10 seconds before collecting so there is no risk of capturing only the dirty oil at the bottom of the pan. To help the oil drain faster, open the oil filler cap.
6. Next, to remove the oil filter you must first remove the skid plate which is covering it (not shown) Once the stock skid bolts are removed, it will tilt on the front hinges and can then be removed or left in place, depending on your preference.
The Toyota stock filter kit includes: the filter element, housing o-ring, drain plug o-ring, and plastic drain adapter.
7. The stock filter housing is plastic but I have upgraded to the aluminum housing (separate writeup for this upgrade) The filter housing has a drain cap which can be removed with a 3/8 square.
Often attempting to remove this cap will cause the whole filter to loosen, which will prevent you from accessing the drain port. While draining the filter housing would be ideal, it is not necessary.
8. Using the oil filter adapter, ensure it is fully seated on the housing and remove with a ratchet and 3/8 extension. If you skipped step 7, make sure not to tilt the filter housing when you are removing it. (you can see that removing the housing full of oil is not ideal)
9. Assuming the oil pan draining has completed, it is time to install a new washer and re-install the bolt assembly. I always keep extra bolts and washers as spares because they are relatively inexpensive and are good to just keep on hand. Inspect the bolt for any stripped threads or imperfections and replace if needed.
Drain Plug (M12-1.25): 9034112012
Drain Washer: 9043012031
Reinstall Torque: 30 ft-lbf
10. Back to the filter housing, wipe out the housing and the mating assembly with lint free towels. If you skipped step 7 and the drain cap is still attached, use an impact wrench to remove the cap. It is not recommended to use a vice and breaker bar as this could damage the aluminum (or plastic) housing or threads.
11. Removing the drain plug will expose the o-ring. Remove this with a pick, it should come out very easily.
12. Replace the o-ring with a new one from the kit. Before inserting into the housing, coat the o-ring in oil by hand. Make sure the drain plug is wiped clean and hand tighten into the housing.
13. Remove the housing o-ring with a pick, coat the new o-ring in oil, and re-install into the housing. When reinstalling, make sure you are shifting the o-ring into place and not twisting it into position. Ensure there are no twists or bends in the newly installed o-ring before proceeding.
14. Remove the old filter element and wipe out with lint free towels. Install the new filter element. I am personally of the opinion that prefilling the filter is a good practice, especially with the 5th gen which is oriented in a position to do so. I fill about 1/3 quart and reinstall the housing.
15. The drain cap and the filter itself must be torqued separately. Using a 3/8 torque wrench, tighten the drain cap to 10 ft-lb, and then use the the oil filter wrench to torque the entire housing down to 18 ft-lb.
16. Fill the engine with 0W-20- if you pre-filled the filter element, subtract the amount from the total required of 6.6 quarts. Use a funnel to minimize spills and replace the oil cap when done.
17. Start up your 4Runner and let it run for 30 minutes or until the engine is warm. Check and make sure there are no leaks at the drain bolt or filter and reinstall the access door and skid plate. Shut the rig off and check the oil level with the dipstick. If you filled with 6.6 quarts, it should be at the top fill line.
Also remember to recycle your used oil at your local auto shop and ship the oil sample off to be analyzed. While this process may take you a few hours if its your first try, it will get a lot faster in the future with the satisfaction of this critical maintenance being completed successfully.